Our Piano Restoration Cost for Full Restoration
$2,990.00 – $10,500.00 – Upright piano refinishing only (Closed Pore Satin Rubbed finish) Satin or Gloss Varnish finish which is impervious to Alcohol & Water. This finish will not fade or crack when exposed to sunlight.
$6,500.00 – 19,650.00 – Upright player piano rebuilding, includes refinishing & restringing
$9,450.00 – 22,500.00 – Square grand piano restoration, including refinishing & restringing
$9,500.00 – 14,500.00 – Parlor organ restoration: Recovering bellows, re-leathering pallet values, replacing all pallet springs, cleaning and voicing all reeds and including a complete refinish of the case.
$8,650.00 – 26,625.00 – Full Baby grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & restoring original soundboard
$8,495.00 – 29,500.00 – Full Parlor and Semi Concert grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & restoring original soundboard
$13,675.00 – 42,750.00 – Full Concert grand piano restoration, including refinishing, restringing, & installing a NEW soundboard (We do not recommend this process) Most all soundboards can be re-crowned and shimmed.
$19,500.00 – 33,000.00 – Full Antique Grand Piano with Reproducing Mechanism Restoration, Fully Restored Mechanism, Case, and Full interior restoration, Plus Virtual Roll
$3,850.00 – 11,500.00 – Full Baby grand and large grand piano (refinishing only)
$5,100.00 – 12,855.00 – Computerized player mechanism installation. Upright and Grand Pianos (only) Our recommended system is the PianoDisc. The reason is; 1. The Warranty its the best available in the business and most of all 2. Their reliability is unsurpassed… 3. The ease of use for all ages and the ability to use your smartphone.
Piano Refinishing Cost's
New Digital Player Piano Installation Cost's & Services
Piano Restoration Cost
With a lack of agreement between technicians as to what constitutes a reconditioning as opposed to a rebuilding/restoring a piano. We are here to help shed some light on what we believe is the difference. Reconditioning is a less thorough process, using a minimum of new parts, and working largely with original parts, whereas rebuilding involves using whatever new parts are necessary to make the piano function at its maximum potential. However, the dividing line between these two procedures is not clearly defined. In some instances reconditioning can involve using several new parts; seldom does a rebuilding include using all new parts. We prefer to call it restoration which according to the dictionary states a bringing back to a former position or condition.
A reconditioning is called for when a piano has been allowed to go for several years without regular piano service (tuning and annual maintenance.) There is still enough hammer left to file, and the piano is tuneable. The piano would be thoroughly cleaned; the action undergoes an alcohol cleaning resulting in resetting of all bushings, freeing lost motion, and regulated; the hammers shaped, fitted to the strings and perfectly voiced; the pedals and dampers are adjusted; and whatever else is necessary is done to restore the piano to its best playing condition. The action centers may be so worn that they need to be re-pinned or even re-bushed. If the existing parts are in decent condition, and if the work is done thoroughly the piano may give several years of satisfactory playability before needing significant attention.
Rebuilding can refer to most any operation, ranging from just adding new hammers to replacing almost everything but the original piano shell. It can include: restringing and new tuning pins, a new pin block, a new soundboard or repairing the old one, new hammers, new hammer shanks, new whippen’s, new white key coverings (IVORIANS), new black keys, new key buttons, keys re-bushed, new backchecks, all action felt replaced, new damper felt, pedal assembly overhauled, plate, soundboard, the entire piano refinished, hardware re-plated, and whatever else may be necessary to make the piano look, sound, and perform like a new instrument.
Just how much should be replaced in a rebuilding is the difficult question. Should a minimum of replacements be made using as many of the original parts as possible, or should everything be replaced so that it is practically a new piano, or should it be something between these two extremes? The cost, the condition of the existing parts, and the quality of the new parts available will all be important factors in the decision. The more thorough the rebuilding, the greater the cost and the longer one can expect trouble-free performance. There will be parts that must be replaced and other parts whose replacement will be optional. If the parts are in good condition and seem to have many years of wear left, it would seem advisable not to replace them. It is important when comparing estimates, to also compare the amount of work needed, including the number and quality of the parts being replaced.
Pianos are precision engineered musical instruments consisting of as many as 9,000 parts. There are no shortcuts to rebuilding a piano properly. No matter how regularly and expertly a piano is serviced, there will come a time when it can no longer function satisfactorily without major repairs. It is necessary to recondition or rebuild when there is no more felt left on the hammers to file and voice, or the tuning pins are so loose that the piano can no longer be tuned.
The most important aspect of Piano Restoration is not the aspects of restoration but by whom the is performing the restoration. Piano Restoration is an Art, not a Science. Here at Piano Artisans our goal is to provide the very best piano restoration services. Just as in the other phases of piano technology, there is a vast difference in the knowledge and workmanship of those who do rebuilding. It can not be assumed that a re-builder can execute each operation in a rebuilding process as skillfully as it was originally done in the factory where the worker does one operation over and over again day after day. It’s considered that a good re-builder can at best restore the piano to 90% of its original quality, although one or two rebuilders do have the reputation of doing work superior to that done in the factory. We are one of them.
Experience is an important factor in rebuilding. It is highly unlikely that a regular technician who only restores one or two pianos a year will have the same expertise as one whose primary work is rebuilding. It does not necessarily follow that one who is a fine tuner, very conscientious and highly trustworthy, is also a good re-builder. The results of a rebuilding are somewhat unpredictable, and often there is little recourse if it does not turn out satisfactory. Sometimes the only solution to a poor rebuilding is to do the complete job over again which can prove very costly. It is important to know your re-builder and to know the quality of work he does. References are always an excellent way of checking out their work.
When a piano is completely rebuilt it may look, sound, and feel like a new piano, and can be expected to give many years of quality performance if properly serviced. A discussion of the various phases of rebuilding is designed, to provide help, in coping with the many decisions necessary regarding rebuilding.
-Setting hammer rest rail
-Lost motion regulation
-Level and key dip keys and change needed under key felt
-Back check regulation
-Tighten pedal screws
-Lube pedal rods
-Touch up damper regulation
-Check for clicks, bobbles, broken parts and fix them Various tasks
-Clean tuning pins, strings
-Vacuum inside & back side of piano
-Blowout action with compressed air
-Clean keys Glue down loose ivories
-Replace missing ivory with matching vintage ivory
-If the keyboard has more than 15 ivories missing we recommend to replace the Old keytops with Ivorian (Simulated Ivory) made of Teflon and is very durable.
-Replace all rubber bumpers
-Restore name board felt with Fine Wool Felt (Organically treated to eliminate infiltration of moths and their eggs from destroying the felt) also its Cedar scented.
A Complete Restoration includes all of the above according to the needs of the individual piano:
-Manually check all flanges and re-pin loose pins
-Replace backcheck buckskin leather
-Replace All Hammer Shanks, Flanges, and Butt
-Replace damper head felt
-Clean key and center pins
-Epoxy minor bass bridge cracks & high treble cracks
-Repair minor soundboard cracks
-Major case cleaning and detailing
-Remove and clean all hardware
-Replace all pedal trapping felt and leather
-Reactivate glue joints Lubricate damper lift rod
Loose tuning pins are usually the first sign that restringing should be considered Although in some cases the tone may severely degenerate before loose pins occur. Strings begin to lose their elasticity and best tone quality after about twenty-five years or so, although the deterioration can be so gradual that the tone is acceptable for several more years. Only when the piano is restrung, is one made aware of the difference between the new and the old strings.
Only on rare occasions will one re-pin with oversized pins without restringing work. Since under normal conditions, pins stay tight for longer than twenty years. It may be possible and advisable to delay restringing a few years by driving the pins slightly further into the pin block, but generally, when the pins are loose it is time to restring. The PTG (Piano Technicians Guild) now is making recommendations to the tuners in the field to apply cyanoacrylate glue (Krazy Glue) to the pin block to help tighten the loose Pins, this is a temporary fix and will only last a few years, at best!
When restringing, there is always the decision as to whether to use the old pin block or install a new one. Five tuning pin sizes are ranging from #1 to #5, OTT that the old block can be used with over-sized pins if it can be determined that it is sound. If a chemical pin tightened has been used, or if there is any doubt about the condition of the present block, it is advisable to install a new one. However, the successful installation of a new pin block requires much skill and experience on the part of the re-builder. The fit must be exact, and the holes drilled evenly at just the right angle 7 degrees to ensure an even, tight tuning pin throughout.
The use of a chemical to tighten loose pins by swelling the wood in the pin block is often successful, but somewhat controversial. Its use may be acceptable on an inexpensive piano to give it a few more years of life when the quality of the instrument hardly justifies the cost of restringing, but to use it on a quality piano is questionable. Chemicals can so destroy the wood fibers around the tuning pins that it is necessary to replace the pin block. Since the strings have lost much of their life by the time the tuning pins become loose, it hardly seems advisable to risk ruining the pin block just to use the dead strings for a few more years. New strings will improve the tone of the piano immensely nearly by 85%
Some may feel that regular tunings may lead to premature loosening of the pins. This could be true if a poor tuning techniques were used which bends the pins or involves several large up and down motions for tuning each pin. But it is not a significant factor when a correct tuning hammer technique is used that involves one or two tiny movements for tuning each pin. A piano used in concert work may be tuned more times in one year than the ordinary piano tuned regularly would be tuned in fifty years, yet without showing a significant change in the tightness of the pins. In addition to poor tuning hammer technique, anther factor that leads to premature loose tuning pins is repeated drastic humidity changes from season to season.
-Full Action Rebuild and Restringing.
–Or new hammers and shanks with reconditioned butts (Possibly on new hammer flanges)
—Or new hammers, shanks, and butts
-If brass butt flanges are present remove the rail and anneal the rail and replace all brass butt
-Replace hammer springs plates
-Replace hammer rail felt
-Replace hammer springs rail felt Rework Whippen’s
Regulation and Replacement of Certain Action Components
-Clean and graphite jacks
-Replace jack springs
-Re-pin all whippen and sticker flanges
-Perhaps replace flanges
-Reactivate glue on jack saddles or re-glue saddles
Replace damper lever felt
Remove and re-felt damper lever felt
Replace damper springs
Re-pin damper flanges or replace flanges
Perchance replace bass bridge
Change key pins or buff
Detail of spacing and timing.